As a grower who has been in the succulent pit for 5 years, I have summarized a set of summer solutions suitable for hot and humid environments. Last summer my balcony succulent survival rate reached 92%, today I will share these practical experience with you.
Shade strategy: precise control of light
Succulents are afraid of continuous high temperature and sun exposure, when the temperature exceeds 30 ℃, I will start the “intelligent shade mode”:
- Use 65% light transmittance shade net.
- Key protection time: 11:00 am – 4:00 pm
- Pay special attention to the direct sunlight on south-facing balconies.
- Keep the east and west sides in natural light to prevent overgrowth.
Tip: Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature difference between different areas, I found that the temperature at 15cm from the glass window is 3-5℃ higher than the ambient temperature. It is recommended to place the most heat-shy Sedum species a little further away from the window.
Scientific watering: wet/dry cycle control method
According to my maintenance records, 68% of summer succulent death cases are related to improper watering. Three safe watering methods are recommended:
Rim soaking method (suitable for regular pots)
Slowly water 2 circles along the edge of the pot
Control watering amount to 1/3 of the usual amount
10-15 days between watering
Bottom dipping method (for severely dehydrated plants)
Water level not more than 1/3 of the pot height
Soaking time ≤ 30 seconds
Air blowing to clean up the water in the center of the leaves after completion.
Air humidification method (suitable for non-porous container cultivation)
Use misting sprayer
Mist the foliage twice a week
Use miniature fan to promote evaporation
Important Reminder:
- Always check the weather forecast before watering (know the weather for the next 3 days in advance).
- Preferably in the evening when there is a morning breeze.
- No watering at all on the return to the south.
Ventilation system: creating a healthy micro-environment
My practice has proven that good ventilation reduces the incidence of black rot by 75%. Recommended configuration:
Industrial grade circulation fan (run regularly for 6-8 hours per day)
Moisture-proof trays (to maintain air circulation at the bottom of the pots)
Grid shelves (keep tier spacing above 15cm)
Special weather response:
- Continuous rainy days: open dehumidifier (humidity control at 55%-65%)
- Typhoon season: advance with windbreak net fixed plants
- Sauna: add ice box cooling device
Pest control: triple protection system
A prevention program proven effective through 3 years of practice:
Physical protection
Monthly cleaning of dead leaves
Choose 3-5mm mafic stone as paving stone.
Isolate newly purchased plants for 2 weeks
Chemical prevention
Small blue medicine (applied once per season)
Small white medicine (for mesquite)
Alcohol spray (immediate treatment of localized infection)
Biological control
Introduction of ladybug larvae to control aphids
Use of Bacillus thuringiensis to control small black fly
Cinnamon powder to repel ants
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I change pots in summer?
A: It is recommended to suspend changing pots, but in special cases, you can use the “dry soil potting method”, do not prune the roots and do not water, and place it in a cool place for 2 weeks.
Q：What should I do if the leaves become watery?
Immediately remove the diseased leaves→spray carbendazim→cut off water and ventilation→check the root system. My salvage success rate is 80%.
Q: Judgment of dormant period characteristics
When the following conditions are found, it means the succulent has entered dormancy:
- The center leaf closes
- Growth point stops developing
- Leaf color gradually darkens
Remember: Each maintenance environment is unique, and it is crucial to establish your own observation records. It is recommended to take weekly contrasting photos of succulents to establish a growth profile. This habit has allowed me to successfully breed 12 new hybrids yet!
